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Engine Break In Procedure

New Engine Break In Procedure

There are only TWO parts of a fresh engine rebuild/build that require "Break In"
Break In refers to the procedure required to enable these parts to properly wear into the engine, and the surfaces they touch, so that they will preform properly, prevent damage, and to enable proper and prolonged life of a new engine build.

The ONLY parts of a new engine build that "Break In" and therefore require special Break In Procedures:
Piston Rings
New Camshafts

If you were told otherwise, you were given improper information. A good example of this is Turbos, very often people are told they need a break in period. This is FALSE.
They do however require proper pre oil priming before started on a new or used engine

ALL new engine builds do require proper pre oiling lubrication before the first startup.
This is different than engine break in, as this only assures oil as been properly and thoroughly forced into all areas of oil lubrication that exist in an engine.

To ensure you are not starting a new engine without proper and thorough oil lubrication throughout the engine and the many parts that require oil lubrication, to avoid metal to metal contact the engine needs to be oil primed before first startup.
Do this by disconnecting the CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) on 1991-1992 3000GT/Stealth or the Cam and Crank Sensors on the 1993-1999 3000GT/Stealth so that while cranking the engine the fuel injectors and spark plugs won't fire.
While using a light to look through the oil filler cap looking at the oiling hole on the tips of the valve rocker, crank the engine until oil starts streaming out of the oiling holes, and the low oil pressure light on the dash goes out.
This will ensure at first startup the engine and turbos will be completely pre oil lubricated.

This is AFTER the engine has been properly assembled using lots of Engine Assembly Lube.

To help protect all of the metal to metal contact points in the engine I highly recommend using either:
Red Line 80319 Liquid Assembly Lube
Found here.
Clevite Assembly Lube Bearing Guard 2800-B2
Found here.
Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube
Found here.

The rings break in by knocking off the sharp edges in the new cylinder bore hone. The rings need to knock this roughness down and seat into the cylinder wall. In order for this to happen efficiently there needs to be adequate cylinder pressure. Driving around for 1000 miles, or even 100 miles, taking it very easy on the engine works against that.

Running the engine gently during the first 100 miles can cause the rings to not seat and possibly never seat. There is a small window of time when the engine needs to break in and if you miss that window it will require a new cylinder hone and new rings in order to properly seat the rings, break in the engine.

This system helps speed up the break in procedure and also ensures the rings break in.
It is also recommended, unless you know the tune on the engine will be dead on perfect, that you start and break in a new engine on a stock ECU and stock fuel injectors. If a new engine is run too rich, too much fuel, the fuel will wash down the cylinder walls, washing off the oil and will end up in pushing past the piston rings and into the oil pan.
Washing the oil off the cylinder walls will make it impossible to seat the rings. It will also dilute the engine oil with fuel causing the oil to lose it's lubrication, damaging all parts of the engine that require oil lubrication including the bearings and turbos.

Once this system is completed the rings will be about 85% seated. The remaining 15% will take a few weeks of driving around to complete.

To help the break in procedure I highly recommend using either:
Brad Penn Break in oil
Found here.
Redline Break In oil additive
Found here.

Engine Break In:

Start engine and run for a few minutes, change oil and oil filter.

Run engine up to operating temp using a burping funnel to burp cooling system with the heater set on hot but on lowest fan speed in order to also burp heater core. Let cooling fans cycle twice to ensure complete coolant system burping. Close up coolant system and change oil and oil filter. Then do break in runs. Once all break in runs are done, change oil and filer.

Make sure to check your oil level, have a correctly burped coolant system, and don't have any leaks.

Warm the engine up completely.

Using 3rd gear:
(3) Dyno/Street pulls
*50% Throttle
*From 2500-4000 rpm
*When the engine hits 4000 rpm let off of the gas, leave car in gear and let the car "engine brake" down to below 2500 rpm. The vacuum also helps the rings seat.
*Repeat for a total of 3 pulls
*Let it Cool Down For About 30 Minutes

(3) Dyno/Street pulls
*50% Throttle
*From 3000-4500 rpm
*When the engine hits 4500 rpm let off of the gas, leave car in gear and let the car engine brake down to below 3000 rpm. The vacuum also helps the rings seat.
*Repeat for a total of 3 pulls
*Let it Cool Down For About 30 Minutes

(3) Dyno/Street pulls
*50% Throttle
*From 3500-5500 rpm
*When the engine hits 5500 rpm let off of the gas, leave car in gear and let the car engine brake down to below 3500 rpm. The vacuum also helps the rings seat.
*Repeat for a total of 3 pulls
*Let it Cool Down For About 30 Minutes

(3) Dyno/Street pulls
*100% Throttle
*From 3000-7000 rpm
*When the engine hits 7000 rpm let off of the gas, leave car in gear and let the car engine brake down to below 3000 rpm. The vacuum also helps the rings seat.
*Repeat for a total of 3 pulls

*You are now done

Change your engine oil and filter, it will have the fine metal powder that is created from the rings seating into the cylinder walls.


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